Have
you ever stopped to think about the evolution of fried rice in America? Well, I
think I might have thought of something similar last night when I was using two
wooden sticks to eat the last bits of rice I had on my plate. Call me crazy,
but I can actually distinguish between Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese and
other Asian foods because I am such an Asian food lover. Although you might not
be able to distinguish the differences, or may not even enjoy the taste of
oriental food, perhaps learning about the critically acclaimed food will do you
some good.
Globalization
plays a huge role in the assimilation of Chinese food within the American
culture. Cheng’s literature review pans over some of the current theories of
globalization. To many globalization theorists, “globalization is often viewed
as an ominous homogenization of the world–where sameness is ubiquitously
imposed, and the difference is steadily suppressed or eliminated.” (2011 198).
If you are wondering what globalization means, or simply haven’t read Cheng’s
article, Inglis & Gimlin (2010 9) provide a good definition of it. In terms
of food communication, globalization is, “the multiple modes of interaction of
the economic, political, social and cultural dimensions of globalization as the
affect food-related matters, and as the latter in turn come to affect the
former, in a series of ongoing dialectical relations characterized by the
constant generation forms of complexity.”
In
1848, the discovery of gold in California prompted the first wave of Chinese
immigration to the United States. This event was followed by Chinese
restaurants being built to feed the growing numbers of people on the West
Coast. Twenty years later there would be similar “Chinatowns” to spring up
along the East Coast as well. Eventually there hostility grew among Americans
and the Chinese were looked down upon; food establishment service was not up to
par and Chinatowns were generally unclean. The United States even passed the
Chinese Exclusion Act in 1882 to decrease the numbers of Chinese immigrants.
After those years, Chinese restaurants and Chinatowns were eventually cleaned
up their act and faced Americans were faced with a new wave of immigration in
the 1960s.
“In
addition to the more than 41,000 independent Chinese restaurants that currently
exist in the United States, there has also been an increase in number of
Chinese chain restaurants, such asP.F. Chang’s and Panda Express” (Cheng 203).
Interestingly, the total number of Chinese restaurants in the U.S. has now
surpassed the combined number of McDonald’s, Wendy’s, and Burger King
franchises. Obviously Chinese food has made its way to the sphere of the
American eating experience.
As
Cheng delves into What people eat at American restaurants, he finds that much
of the Chinese restaurants in America are not serving authentic “Chinese” food.
Due to the anti-Chinese sentiments that the oriental immigrants had to go
through over the years, Cheng explains that the Chinese food industry had to
assimilate in order to survive. The four dimensions of the acculturation model
are key here. They are integration, assimilation, separation, and
marginalization. Integration refers to the majority of Chinese immigrants creating
a “familiar-yet-exotic” cuisine for the American eaters. The other three
aspects are important, but Cheng does not touch on them as fully as he does
with integration.
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